After taking full view of two of the so-called “high islands” Polynesian, we fly to the archipelago of Tuamotus, with the main objective: diving. These islands are recognized worldwide for their underwater life, it’s up to us to make our own idea.
There we go, we are at the other end of the world
Our wish was to discover the atolls of Tikehau, Rangiroa and Fakarava. But before we begin, an instant of science and culture that will let you shine at your next social event: but what is an atoll?
An atoll is actually what remains of a volcanic island, like Tahiti for example, after millions of years of erosion and movement of tectonic plates. Once the volcano comes out of the water, a coral reef is formed at its perimeter (as for the Great Barrier Reef in Australia). Then the volcano erodes and collapses on itself little by little until completely disappearing. The lagoon (the water located inside the barrier) then covers the whole island as a large pool (several tens of kilometers anyway). Deep only a few tens of meters while the ocean around slides several hundred meters deep. The lagoons can be opened, or not, on the ocean by what we called passes. Those are simply the result of the ancient freshwater rivers of the island having opened the coral reef. Well, here you are armed to understand that our life was better than yours during these few weeks.
Tranquility and relaxation in Tikehau
So when we arrive at Tikehau International Airport (just joking, rather at at tiny Tikehau airport) which consists of a small cabin no bigger than a classroom we grasp the meaning of the phrase “end of the world”. Our host having decided not to wait for us, what a temper, we are greeted by her neighbor who crowns us with flowers. This Polynesian tradition is still practiced, which delights us! Here we are in our little paradise for 4 days, a campsite on the edge of the lagoon. We are not going to lie to you, the Binic campsite in Brittany with sea view is great, but the camp-site of the pension Justine is quite better. It is therefore overwhelmed by the beauty and tranquility of the place we settle with another couple of campers. The high Polynesian season is in full swing and it is quite problematic: two tents on a beach at the edge of the lagoon.
The first day is dedicated to the discovery of the motu (the island making up the atoll on which the village is located). It’s a weird feeling to ride 10 minutes on a 4-kilometer stretch of sand in the middle of the ocean. After a well-deserved resting day (the flights by plane get you tired … huh?) to wade with the sharks of the lagoon, we go on our second excursion in Polynesia. Accompanied by our friends, the small family of Uzès Marlène, Thibault, Ernestine and Charlie, we spend a busy day. We start in style with our first meeting with the majestic manta rays, followed by the “exploration” of the beautiful bird island. As bizarre as it may seems, birds are rare in Polynesia since the majority disappeared after the colonists introduced rats and cats. We end our tour by a swim at the end of the world on a motu with pink sand tongues, a postcard factory.
Before leaving the atoll and this unknown sensation of isolation, we take the kayaks to enjoy one last time these little lonely motus.
Rangiroa, the Tuamotus New York
After a micro flight of 30 minutes on our favorite airline (a glass of pineapple juice is offered on board, the simple things), we reach the Rangiroa Atoll. Another jewel of Polynesia, the atoll is known among our diving friends looking for “big”, as insiders say (understand big fish, no overweight divers).
So after we have settled in the garden / camping Ludwig, a beekeeper settled here for more than 15 years and welcoming travelers, we take our marks on this new atoll. We take this opportunity to better understand the Paumotu society (the Tuamotu people) and the life on the atolls. However, our main goal and hobby here is above all scuba diving. Indeed, after Thailand, the Philippines and Indonesia, it is the turn of Polynesia to charm us with its waters full of fish.
It was during our very first dive in the Tiputa Pass that we met a group of dolphins rewarding us with a ballet of acrobatics, games and exchanges with divers. A magical and unforgettable moment offered by the marine world that makes Audrey moved to tears once on the surface. The second dive is drifting (for the uninitiated: divers are pushed by the current along the reef). It is more sporty but also really impressive because we find ourselves in the middle of dozens of sharks of all kinds. Strong sensations assured in this dive spot of choice. We can boast to have it explore during this trip now!
The following days are dedicated to the visit of the village, the pearl farm (a classic in this pearl culture paradise) and a show of Polynesian dances (long awaited by Audrey). The music and the Polynesian joie de vivre are contagious, and we have a great evening. All that is very nice, but the ocean calls us we put on our swim suits and our masks. It’s hard to describe a dive, especially around photos saturated with blue, but we can try … To derive from the current in canyons sheltering nurse sharks, or suspended in time in the “blue” (without visual cue if not the sun on the surface) among sharks, dolphins and dozens of schools of fish, or at sunset … in short, our dive book is filling well.
We finish our stage in Rangiroa by our third and final excursion in Polynesia. Our program, the reef island exploration where rock formations emerged revealing a unique panorama between turquoise waters and black volcanic rocks. Beautiful scenery, a lunch to die for, a snorkeling surrounded by hundreds of fish, and a last goodbye to the dolphins on a boat this time. An exceptional moment in the company of Toari, our adorable and cheerful guide who will end our stay in Rangiroa.
An atoll on an aquarium, Fakarava
Our passage on the last Polynesian atoll is express. We are indeed constrained by the reduced availability of airline tickets, we will stay only 2 days in Fakarava (you can help us complain you know). It’s short but we’ll come back for sure!
We have little time on the spot so we skip the actual exploration of the island and we return to our thread of atolls, as you have guessed, diving. After having settled in our dream campsite (our favorite Polynesian accommodation by far), we carry out two more dives. And here, ladies and gentlemen, there is a big level: walls of sharks far from being shy, swimming so close to us that we could touch them, in clear water full of miles and corals. Once again, we end up with a smile on our faces. We took advantage, we can say that we are satiated with the marine world in this paradise of divers.
Our last Polynesian day is spent in Tahiti, the opportunity for Ben to be immortalized 26 days of happiness. A morning in the hands of a nice tattooist, some grimaces and curses, and here he is marked for life by this step. We note that only a chicken was left to score, but hey we are a couple, a team, so we can consider that we are two to have been stamped! A last evening in the company of our benefactors Antoine and Marine around a beer (only one) and Breton pancakes (it had at least the name), and here we are embarking on a new plane.
We had many expectations when arriving in Polynesia. This stage represented a certain budget in a world tour, and seemed to us in a certain way inaccessible. However, we can now say that this was one of the best choices we could make on this route. Everything has absolutely delighted us, the inhabitants, the mountainous landscapes or the atolls of the end of the world, the beaches with the black, pink or white sand, the gastronomy, the turquoise waters similar to swimming pools, the submarine life, and especially the so unique atmosphere that leaves no one indifferent. It is with a twinge of heart that we leave the archipelago of our dreams … but do not worry, it’s better to fly to another destination that is dear to us, Easter Island. But that’s for the next article of chickens.
See you soon,
Audrey & Ben, the travelling chickens.