After Bagan, we decide to join Mandalay by bus (with JJ Express our favorite company), the main city of northern Myanmar, and discover its surroundings. We quickly discover that Mandalay is as spread over as Yangon. The decision to rent scooters for the day was adopted unanimously. What a great idea we had! Nadège proves to be as good a pilot as his brother, it must be in their blood. It is therefore without difficulty that the Guérandais are making their way in the Burmese traffic.
Mandalay and its surroundings
First discovery quite unusual during this day scooter: the observation of the lunch of 1200 monks in what could be called the central canteen of the numerous surrounding pagodas. We arrive a little late to observe the flow of monks (we are often right on the schedule, a faculty of Ben …). Despite this, we are happy to discover this place where tourists are rare and where men in red Burgundy togas walk in the green streets of the Amarapura district. The bonzes finish their meal and go back to their occupations some notebooks and pens in hand. The neighborhood’s modest children take the opportunity to ask them the time they cross the street before they rush into one of the many pagodas. We’re having a good time watching this show, taking 2000 pictures of children for Audrey, and playing all kinds of games with them for Shahab.
We then discover Sagaing Hill on the other side of the Irrawaddy River. It is hard to find the stairs to climb the hill and access the temple at the top. Fortunately for us, it is by approaching one of the many monasteries that a monk named Javana invites us to cross it on one condition, take a moment to discuss together. The monks love these exchanges where they can perfect their English and discover their daily lives. We have a rather old-fashioned image of monks in France and Javana does not fit this image at all. Like many, it is a digital 2.0 monk who hastens to give his email address to Ben to keep in touch. Something useful because our separation was only five minutes before receiving our first email from him! A succin “how are you?” which made us laugh a lot but was answered by a selfie from the top of the hill.
After discovering the pagoda and we were once again engaged in photo shoots with Burmese families, we are surprised to find our favorite monk at the exit of the temple in full discussion with another French couple in search of a visit of caves. Then begins a new unusual moment, where Javana invites us to visit caves not known to tourists nearby. So Nadège and Shahab lead Javana to their destination, three one their scooter, where we are treated to a VIP tour of dug out caves from 1670. It’s a lot less spectacular than it sounds, but it’s worth visiting, just for the monks who proudly show us their homemade electrical system.
It is then towards Inwa, a few kilometers south from Mandalay that we finish the afternoon. This small town (this big village?) is an old capital where time has stopped and where one strolls between banana fields, horse carts, and majestic temples. After a long and busy day, we take a break and fail to return before the sunset. Despite all our efforts, we do not arrive on time at the famous U-Bein bridge, 1.2km of teak, the world’s longest bridge in the genre. We have faced Audrey’s chronic inability to use a GPS. We do not lose hope, by the time we return, she will be competent on this point!
Our second day is punctuated by the discovery of the city of Mandalay. We discover the workshops of making gold leaves, ornaments used for the thousands Buddhas and religious buildings of the country. These workshops surprise by their authenticity, and especially by the few mechanical means that are used. They are actually young people who hit the mass of small gold nuggets continuously for hours. Punctuated by the blows of clubs and the fields of the hammers, the nuggets flatten up to become thin like cigarette paper. It’s impressive. Having not had our daily ration, we take a visit to a beautiful wooden pagoda, because yes, there is a mandatory daily pagoda quota in Myanmar!
Burmese train to Hsipaw
Our next step is more of an excuse than a destination in itself. The town of Hsipaw northwest of Mandalay is a starting point for many treks, but we do not walk! So if you go there, it’s mostly for the trip itself. Given the length (in terms of time, no distance, it is not correlated here …), we make the trip in two parts. The first is an idea of Ben (you see what kind ?!), and lasts more than two hours in the back of a truck loaded with a few local diverse goods. Not super comfortable but exotic for sure! In order to vary the pleasures (and that’s all the purpose of this trip), we go on after a night step up the train connecting Pyn Oo Lwin to Hispaw. It meanders through the countryside and crosses a river through the very impressive Gokteik viaduct. A magical moment during which we will exchange smiles, snacks and photos with our neighbors of wagons. All sublimated by the jets, or rather the buckets of water received through the windows of our train launched by the inhabitants of the towns crossed by the railway. Thus begins our experience of the Buddhist New Year, also known as the Water festival!
It’s on board that we meet AK, a young Burmese, 17-year-old model and fashion student who stands out by his style and makes Audrey feel old! We exchange our Facebook, we take photos, we help AK practice his English, the trip passes quickly (just seven short hours …). The city of Hispaw is not very interesting, however, we enjoy the town atmosphere during the water festival. Small dedication to Maria Cayre who hates to be watered, this holiday is definitely not for you! There are very few other westerners in town, and we quickly become the main targets of the children and the inhabitants who water us nicely. They transformed the banks of the river into a large pool party with buoys, coconuts, beers and grilled meats. What attracted half of city to celebrate the new year in due form.
Wet chickens in Mandalay
Full of energy, we plan the return to Mandalay by bus. Well yes but no, during the new year, the country is completely paralyzed for five days! The only things that advance faster than a bike is the train … All public transports are stopped, it is also not possible to hire the services of a private driver, they prefer to stay with their family. So that will be the train, up to Mandalay this time, and in first class (the difference with the second class is much less important than what you think, it was not the Concorde).
Here we are back in Mandalay where the water festival reach its height. We are overwhelmed by the frenzy that spreads throughout the city during these five days. The roads are lined up with children and adults filling huge buckets of water or armed with garden hoses to soak bikers and drivers passing by on their doorstep. It is in the city center, around the palace that the party reaches its height. We had seen workers set up platforms before we left, but we naively thought they were scenes for musical performances or dance. Not at all! These are actually perches to accommodate dozens of people watering the crowd in delirium with fire hoses on techno music thoroughly balloons! Two whole avenues, a good kilometer of madness. But do not panic, to the surprise of locals, we come armed with customized and improved water pistols!
We will also be, we must say, real ephemeral stars since we will be taken in pictures a hundred times with children, grannies, young people, drunk or masked people. Audrey will even be asked to kiss and touch a few babies in the middle of the crowd! A strange feeling, but the Burmese are so smiling and adorable that it is impossible to refuse them anything. A real moment of joy and sharing with this population to the joy of living that we will not be ready to forget!
It’s very wet that we have to say goodbye to Nadège and Shahab. Our roads separate a few days before their return to France. We spent two weeks together and it did us good. To find famous heads, and to share a part of our journey in addition, a sacred gift! Thank you for travelling with us! See you in a few months!
Before leaving the city, we decide to find a little calm by returning to visit Inwa, far from the madness of the water festival … Quite a failure, since our means of transport to cover the 10 kilometers will be a tuk -tuk! Means of transport usually very pleasant because well ventilated and allowing to enjoy the fresh air … ! The ride is a real obstacle course. We take without exaggeration, a good sixty buckets of water in the face, hot water or frozen! Our little whiteheads can be seen from far away and we are once again prime targets for wholesome locals. What was very funny the day before is a little less when we can not fight back! It is a second time that we discover Inwa under a heat of lead (best way to dry) but in a very pleasant calm.
We leave Mandalay a second and last time towards the south and the famous Inle Lake. And as we love it, we go there by train! But that’s for the next article of the chickens!
See you soon,
Audrey & Ben