After the crowds and the first touristic stage offered by Siem Reap, we decide not to explore the Cambodian coast which is often a popular destination for travellers in Cambodia. Indeed, the rest of our trip around the world including many paradisiacal islands, we decide to discover the Cambodian countryside by heading to the east of the country more rural.
From Kampong Thom to Mekong shores
First step of our Cambodian stage, Kampong Thom. Well, we’re not going to lie to you it’s a bit of a big disappointment. The charming village that we pictured turned out to be a small ugly town crossed by a highway and that does not present Cambodia in its best light. Pollution that is a real problem in this country without any ecological feeling, or poor gastronomy in the few restaurants we could find reminded us that Thailand is already far away and that the night markets are not all worth it. However, the chickens did not sat their last word and try to enjoy the little local life in the streets at sunset: Ben is getting invited with these gentlemen to a “pétanque” game, and Audrey observes these ladies in full effort to make the gym tonic at the edge of a busy road!
Also, we rent a scooter to discover the surroundings with our hotel and its adorable staff. Yes you will notice that Audrey still accept with an overflowing naturalness to adopt the two-wheeler as privileged means of transportation for this trip… or not. History told us that Cambodian roads, as we see them, are not really roads but dirt roads… And it’s during a loop of 80 km at scooter that we fully understand the meaning of the word dirt roads. Indeed, in order to discover another set of temples and the surrounding countryside, Ben prepared a nice trip not following the main roads as according to his words “these are real secondary routes Audrey do not worry”.
There we go, on our brand new Honda… or almost! And after 10 minutes of real roads, there are dirt roads waiting for us, the way is rather smooth, except the complete desensitization of Audrey’s but. It is rather on the way back that it turns out to be the most interesting. After an hour of travel, the roads become dirt roads, the dirt roads become trails, and the trails become sand paths It does not last long for the sand but this return trip lasted long enough to make our two chickens covered with dust, tired, and to comfort Audrey in the idea of taking a break on the marvellous scooter tours organized by Ben!
Anyway, what’s left of it will be the pleasure to drive through countryside and hear ten hello minutes of the inhabitants with a lot of smiles. The landscapes are in fact rather disappointing in this very dry car season, but this is offset by the kindness of Cambodians especially in the countryside.
After this epic day, and a big laugh, we decide to go back to Kratie, a city located on the banks of the Mekong. The idea is to go to the island of Koh Trong, a small island of six kilometres long housing only a few houses and agricultural fields where time has stopped. We find a free room in one (of two guest houses) on the island, rent bikes this time and go to discover the island, which lasted at least 1 hours and a half! Not much to do except relax, take your time, photograph cows for Ben (we have to mention that we’ll probably have one or two thousands of cows photos from all over the world when we will get back) and watch the sunsets on the Mekong river accompanied by half of the children of the village. Particularly pretty girls who decided that Audrey must be part of the clan by wearing on his head necklaces of flowers and all kinds of plants collected on the banks of the Mekong!
Also, after the sunset, it is on the way back home that we are witnessing amazing scenes, such as a monk playing football in orange underwear/toga performing the dance of victory as a result of a goal scored brilliantly! Or an improvised karaoke on the beach. We don’t need that much time to make us invited to this little party organized by a group of locals singing Cambodian ballads. Of course, they ask us to participate to the karaoke, and despite the offered beer we do not shine, even on the song “Aline” we are asked to sing to our surprise, unreal! This evening will end with the duo performance of Audrey and a young Cambodian, on the song “Hélène, my name is Hélène” at her request… karaoke in Cambodian is definitely fun!
After two days on the island, out of time and far from everything, it’s time to take the motorcycle / taxi / boat / bus, direction Mondolkiri and the east of the country…
Nature and communities from the Mondolkiri region
The purpose of this small stop in the region of Mondolkiri was to discover Cambodia’s “mountains” (in reality we are at x km altitude… It remains Cambodia) but especially spend some time in the Cambodian jungle.
The region is well known for its many excursions around the observation of elephants and the discovery of local people life, especially the Bunong community. Ben manages to convince Audrey to sign up for a two-day trek in the jungle with a homestay night. Yes yes, Audrey likes scooter and treks we will have seen everything! So it is with a certain curiosity that we leave in the morning for two days. We had read a lot of opinions, and feedbacks on the treatment of elephants in this region and although we were quite keen on the homestay night, and the jungle discovery, we were not so excited by the elephant part. We wanted to make our own opinion on the subject. In fact, there is a ongoing conflict between the various elephant rescuing centres and locals guides. Elephants are certainly better treated than a dozen of years ago when they were not well treated and used for various construction tasks. However, currently, they are used for touristic purposes. The problem lies in the fact that the rescuing centres often do not hire local communities staff, which does not contribute to their development either. The issue is a little complicated, and when the elephants came during our trek, we were quite reluctant, and despite a very nice guide and a natural wonder in front of these incredible animals, we decided that the real discovery will be to see them during an African safari in the wild later on!
After this episode, our very nice French group (Stéph, Cédric and Marie, Adèle and Anthonin not to mention them!) focus instead on the forest, the waterfalls, and the barbecue cooked by our guide!
It is now 15:30 and our guide takes us back to the Bunong village where we will spend the night… Yes it is very early you will wonder. And this is where our guide abandons us, advising us to discover this village and participate to the English course conducted by a volunteer at 7pm… To put into context, it is impossible to communicate with the locals and our host family, the village consists of 10 houses in total (a unique dirt road), a flat calm… However, our small group full of good intention decides to start the discovery of the village (realised in 10 minutes chrono), and it is then that the children of our house / hut rush on us to play with them observed by the few inhabitants. As they probably do each time homestay tourist come for the night. A good laugh takes us, the unlikely situation of being in the middle of nowhere to serve as a swing for the children who must see scrolling tourists sleeping at home every week. It is with these lovely children that we spend time (and a few beers) waiting for the arrival of our second guide, the father of our homestay. The evening will be very pleasant eating the delicious bamboo soup prepared by the family, and discussing the life of the Bunong communities well away from mass tourism and urban Cambodia!
After a good night’s sleep in a hammock in the family hut… This sentence seems very funny to read but yes surprisingly we sleep not so bad in a hammock. We go for the real trek of 6hours in the jungle. A route to discover three waterfalls, some medicinal plants explained by our guide and enjoy a delicious barbecue on bamboo skewers! Well we are not going to lie we are not so keen on hiking but we still spend a great moment thanks to this local guide who knows the jungle as his pocket and who opens his house to a few tourists keen on eco-tourism!
It is therefore on this beautiful note that we complete our journey in Cambodia. This country will have disappointed us with its rather dry landscapes in this season but we will certainly have made it possible to fill up with smiles and kindness from its inhabitants. It’s time to join Laos, country of hammock and relaxation… Let see for hyperactive Ben…
See you soon,
Audrey & Ben